Nigel Slater’s five Christmas pie recipes (2024)

There is always something jolly and festive about bringing a pie to the table. It may be filled with turkey or beef, game or sausagemeat, held under a plain or fancy crust. It could be an open tart, potato-layered terrine or a giant sausage roll. Whatever filling or crust you choose, it will be welcome at the Christmas table.

Beef and Stilton pie with herb Stilton shortbread crust

I often find there is never quite enough pastry on a meat pie. This crust, flecked with blue cheese and herbs is so good, I’ve made twice the quantity, and cooked it separately, shortbread style for those who feel the same.

Serves 4
groundnut oil
beef
1kg, cubed
small shallots
10
carrots
300g
celery
1 rib
plain flour
2 tbsp
Marsala
200ml
beef stock
1 litre
thyme
8 sprigs

For the shortbread crust
plain flour
250g
butter
75g
parsley
a large handful
Stilton
80g
thyme leaves
1 tsp
egg yolks
2
water
to mix

Warm a couple of tablespoons of oil in a deep casserole, add a third of the beef and brown on all sides, remove, then continue with the rest of the meat. By doing it in three batches you avoid crowding the pan, allowing the meat to brown more effectively.

Peel and halve the shallots, roughly chop the carrot then add both to the pan, with a little more oil if needed, browning gently and evenly. Slice the celery into thin pieces and add to the pan.

Return the beef to the pan, together with any juices that may have escaped, then scatter over the flour, continue cooking for a minute or two, then pour in the Marsala and the beef stock and bring to the boil. Season with salt and pepper, tuck in the thyme sprigs, then lower the heat and simmer, very gently for almost 2 hours, till the beef is tender. Leave to cool a little whilst you make the crust.

Make the crust: put the flour into a bowl, add the butter, then rub together until you have the texture of coarse, fresh breadcrumbs. Chop the parsley roughly. Add the crumbled Stilton, the chopped parsley and thyme leaves to the flour and butter and process gently to fine crumbs. Mix in the egg yolks and enough water to make a soft but rollable dough. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.

Cut the dough in half. Roll one half to the diameter of the beef casserole dish, then place on top of the beef. Cut a hole or small slit in the centre. Shape the other half into a 20cm disc, place on a baking sheet, prick the surface with a fork then score into six segments, as if you were slicing a cake.

Bake the pie and the separate crust for 25-30 minutes till golden brown. Serve the pie, and the extra crust for those who want it.

Pigeon, parsnip and porcini pie

Nigel Slater’s five Christmas pie recipes (1)

A special pie for Christmas, with a soft, game and mushroom filling and topped with parsnip crisps.

Serves 4-5
dried porcini
20g
water
750ml
chestnut mushrooms
250g, browned in oil
butter
50g
olive or groundnut oil
pigeon breasts
500g
plain flour
a heaped tbsp

For the top
parsnips
1 large
cranberries
100g
butter
80g, melted
rosemary
1 tbsp, chopped

Put the dried porcini in a heatproof bowl, bring the water to the boil then pour over the porcini. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes to give a clear, golden brown broth.

Slice the chestnut mushrooms thickly, then cook them, with some of the oil and butter, in a casserole or deep sided frying pan till they are nut brown, then remove them and set aside.

Add a little more butter and oil to the pan and return to the heat. Season the pigeon breasts then brown them nicely on both sides in the butter and oil. Return the mushrooms to the pan, then scatter the flour over and cook briefly, then pour in 600ml of the porcini stock, stir well and then add the porcini. Simmer gently for 10 minutes then set aside.

Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Peel and thinly slice the parsnip into discs. Transfer the pigeon mixture to a large pie dish or shallow casserole. Scatter the cranberries over the surface.

Melt the butter in a pan, add the finely chopped rosemary, then toss them gently to cover. Briefly place the parsnips on top of the pigeon, making sure they are all covered in butter, then bake for 45 to 50 minutes, till the parsnips are crisp and the filling is bubbling.

Brussels sprout, chestnut and turkey tart

Nigel Slater’s five Christmas pie recipes (2)

A creamy tart, filled with the very essence of Christmas dinner. It also works rather nicely with chicken.

Serves 6
For the pastry
plain flour
150g -200g
butter
90g
egg yolks
2
water
a very little

For the filling
Brussels sprouts
300g
cooked turkey
500g on bone weight
cooked chestnuts
100g, vacuum packed or canned
creme fraiche
200g
double cream
150ml
eggs
2 plus 1 yolk
Parmesan
for grating

Make the pastry: rub the flour and butter together with your fingertips, or in a food processor, till they resemble coarse, fresh breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolks and enough water to bring to a soft, rollable dough.

On a floured board, roll out the pastry and use to line a 20cm tart tin, pushing the pastry well into the corners. Leave to rest in the fridge for 20 minutes. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.

Line the pastry case with baking parchment or greaseproof paper weighed down with baking beans and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and beans and return the pastry case to the oven for 6-7 minutes till it feels dry to the touch.

For the filling: trim and quarter the Brussels sprouts. Cook them in deep boiling water for 4-5 minutes till bright and tender, then drain and cool quickly under cold running water. Remove the turkey from the bones and cut into large, bite sized pieces.

In a mixing bowl, toss together the turkey and chestnuts, then spoon into the pastry case. Tuck the cooked sprouts amongst the turkey and chestnuts.

Mix the double cream, creme fraiche, eggs and egg yolk, season generously then pour into the tart case. Dust the top with grated Parmesan and bake for 40 minutes or until the custard is lightly set. Serve warm.

Chorizo and potato hot terrine

Nigel Slater’s five Christmas pie recipes (3)

A festive, paprika-seasoned version of the traditional sausage and potato pie.

Serves 4
onion
1 medium - large, thinly sliced
butter
30g
chorizo
500g
parsley
4 tbsp, chopped
sage
4 leaves, chopped
potatoes
600g

Line a heatproof, china terrine with clingfilm, pushing it well into the corners, leaving plenty overhanging the sides.

Peel and thinly slice the onions, then cook them in the butter in a shallow pan till they soften and turn pale gold. Skin and crumble the chorizo into the softened onions and continue cooking for a couple of minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley and sage leaves.

Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Wash and thinly slice the potatoes. Cover the base of the terrine with slices of potato, season with salt and pepper, then a layer of onions and chorizo, then another of potato and so on, till all is finished, ending with potato. Cover the top with the overhanging film.

Place the terrine in a roasting tin, pour hot water in to come half way up the sides and cover with a heavy weight before baking for 1.5 hours. Leave to rest for 20 minutes before turning out and removing the clingfilm.

fa*ggot slice

Nigel Slater’s five Christmas pie recipes (4)

The rich, spicy quality of a traditional fa*ggot, but with sweet prunes, the filling for this pie must be rather similar to that of the original mince pie.

Serves 6
sausage meat
400g
banana shallots
2 medium
bacon
4 rashers
garlic
3 cloves, crushed
lamb’s liver
200g
prunes
100g, soft-dried
ground ginger
1 tsp
nutmeg
½tsp
ground allspice
1 tsp
puff pastry sheets
2 x 215g
beaten egg
a little

Put the sausage meat in a large mixing bowl. Peel and finely chop the shallots then cook them, together with the bacon cut into small pieces and the crushed garlic, in a shallow pan till soft and golden. Add the softened onions and bacon to the sausage meat.

Finely chop the liver then add to the mixture, together with the roughly chopped prunes, the ginger, nutmeg and allspice and a good seasoning of salt and black pepper. Mix thoroughly.

Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Place one piece of pastry on a baking sheet and trim it long one of the longest sides, to give a slim rectangle. Pile the fa*ggot mixture in the middle then smooth into a low sausage shape, leaving a wide rim of bare pastry around the edges.

Brush the edges with the beaten egg then place the second sheet of pastry over the top and press the edges tightly to seal. Brush the pastry with beaten egg. If you wish, use the pastry trimmings to decorate the top of the pie with holly leaves and berries.

Score a series of cuts in the top of the pastry, so they will open a little in the oven, allowing a peak of the meat within, then brush with more of the beaten egg. Bake for about 40 minutes until risen and golden.

Nigel Slater’s five Christmas pie recipes (2024)
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